Langkawi - Penang - Cameron Highlands

Ah - a New Year's Eve party to remember at Zackry's in Langkawi. Zack invited all his residents to free satays and potato salad, and there were copious cheap beers to be bought from the fridge (Langkawi's a duty free zone, so alcohol is cheap).

I find myself chatting to Susan & Sarah, a couple of Aussie girls from Brisbane. As the magic hour approaches, I'm the only one who knows the words to Auld Lang Syne, so lead the singing. Fortunately, everyone's had a few beers by then, so no one complains.

The ferry to Penang doesn't leave until late afternoon, so I extend my scooter rental and see a bit more of the island.


First stop is the Snake Sanctuary. What these guys do with these venomous snakes is amazing. I speak to one of the guys afterwards, and he shows me all the bite marks on his hands - every now and then he gets unlucky. But they have first aid and antidotes readily to hand, so don't suffer the death or flesh-wasting problems of less fortunate victims I saw in photos.


The obligatory python shot. Lovely smooth skin and muscular body. The snake was like that too.


As there are few people visiting, our guide takes us right in to the cages. Scary being only a metre away from a cobra, but I figured he knew what he was doing.


Then my turn - the snakes are pretty sleepy, he reckoned.

On my own I get close to a highly venomous pit viper. I can just touch his body through the netting - and it generates an instant response. Rearing up ready to strike, I'm thankful for the barrier between him and me. I'd hate to disturb one on a jungle trek.

With the morning gone I just have time to squeeze in the Wildlife Sanctuary before returning the bike and catching a cab to the ferry terminal.


This handsome fellow rather appealed.

The ferry south to Penang takes three hours. It's a fairly rough trip, and a few passengers are barfing into bags. Fortunately I don't have any problems - apart from the air conditioning. It's set to "Cool store" temperature, and an icy blast on my back has me reaching for my fleece.

But soon enough we get to Georgetown, acclaimed by a cheer from the passengers as the boat throttles off in to the harbour. I've followed Richard's recommendation and arrive at Baba's Guesthouse in Batu Ferringhi, the beach area on the north western side of the island.

A motorbike is quickly sorted for Wednesday's activities. Sadly another scooter - this time a Honda 125 - but it'll get around ok. I meet up with Guillam and Anise from northern France - they're doing a post-graduation round the world trip, and will make it to Auckland in late February. I give them some tips on things to see and do, and will catch up with them if they email.

Wednesday morning doesn't start well. I'm up early for a run along the beach, but as opposed to Langkawi's fine coral sand the Penang sand is coarse. I settle for a walk. And a swim. Big mistake. Unbeknownst to me the offshore winds have pushed jellyfish towards the shore, and after 15 minutes in the murky water I'm suddenly aware of this stinging pain across the top of my feet as I'm swimming. I race back to the hotel to have a soothing gel rubbed in to the burning red rash - they've had this problem before.

I was going to dress this story up as a giant squid attack, but feel I'm tempting fate.

So no sandals today - the strap rubs in the sorest spot. I start my tour around the island in walking shoes.

My brother Geoff and his wife Annette lived in Kota Bharu on the north east coast around 25 years ago, and holidayed in Penang's E&O Hotel.


So my first stop on the road had to check it out. Great colonial architecture, typical of the old Penang buildings.


Of course I could barely afford a pastry and coffee at E&O's Sarkies Corner restaurant. At $US200 per night this hotel a bit out of my league. And I didn't even bother trying for a drink at Farquhars. But I can visualise you propping up the bar there Geoff!


On to Penang Hill, for a trip up to the top in the funicular railway, ie a cable pulls the passenger cars up to the top.


It's a hazy day, and the views out to Georgetown and the spectacular 13km bridge that connects Penang to the mainland are indistinct.


Much more satisfying is the Spice Garden, not far from Ferringhi Beach. Lovely walks taking in Jungle, Ornamental and Spice trails. Great seeing coffee, cloves, pepper, cinnamon and lemon grass all growing close together. I break off a bit of leaf from each and rub them between my fingers, and luxuriate in the aromas.

And Penang? A pleasant spot, but it's really an island city which has some nice beaches. Langkawi beats it hands down as a beach resort area, with the added bonus of cheap booze. I decide to move on to the Cameron Highlands, and book my bus accordingly.

Thursday morning also gets off to a bad start, but not due to jellyfish this time. The mosque not far from the guesthouse decides to call the faithful to worship at 5.30am. A bit early for morning prayers, I'm thinking. But this is a strongly Muslim society, so I go with the flow. Nearly all the women wear head scarves and full length dresses in Malaysia. A major contrast from Buddhist Thailand.

I decide not to go for a swim this morning. It's still pitch black at 7am - despite being on the same longitude as Thailand, Malaysia has decided to put its clocks forward an hour to give perpetual daylight saving. I grab a Bill Bryson book from the library to fill in some time.

It's a nearly six hour trip south to the interior of the peninsula, and I sleep a lot of the way. Once we're off the main road to KL the road twists and turns its way up the hills (another dream bike road) to Tanah Rata, the central town in the Cameron Highlands. We pass tea plantations and strawberry farms, and I sense another bike trip coming up. On arrival a van from Twin Pines Guesthouse is there to meet the bus - this is the same place Fi and Lydia stayed a few months ago, and came with their recommendation.

I like my room - private bathroom with a welcome hot shower. It's cold up here in the highlands - reminds me of NZ with the hills and 20 degree temperatures. I decide on an all day trek on Friday, renting a bike for Saturday morning to take in what the trek misses, then on to KL in the afternoon. I'm still hanging out for Borneo if it comes together.

My next post will tell you about my jungle trekking encounters with giant spiders and venomous snakes. My feet have recovered now, and can take in a reasonable amount of walking. Stay tuned!