Saturday 10 July, and it's during our final morning souvenir shop that Pauline starts to feel unwell. Heading back to the lodge we lay her down on a sofa in the foyer while a migraine starts to set in. I rush out to find a doctor - unfortunately he closed ten minutes earlier. But there's a clinic on the way to the airport - expensive, but the best in town. We pile our gear into the taxi, and with Pauline as white as a sheet and about to throw up at any moment, it's a nailbiting ride.
Scenarios of missing our flight flash through my mind. Rebooking, insurance claims, letting people know, missing my first day in a new job. It's not worth thinking about.
Pauline's feeling a bit better as we limp into the clinic. After an anxious half hour of filling in forms and waiting around, she gets to see a doctor. She's a lot perkier now, and the doctor prescribes some pills for headache and nausea similar to the ones we're already carrying and sends us on our way. And no payment for the consultation - amazing! I'm anxiously looking at my watch, but we get to the airport in plenty of time to make our connecting flight to KL.
And apart from a slight panicky moment when Pauline loses her passport down a deep pocket in her handbag, it's smooth sailing all the way back home. Pauline's feeling a box of birds by the time we get to KL and is wondering what all the fuss was about.
Fiona's there to meet us as we step out of the plane into the Auckland chill. It's been a great holiday, but as always when you've been away it's good to get back to family, friends, familiar surroundings and a bit of a routine.
I didn't score my slippers while I was away, but I did find a couple of very nice paper knives in Java and Borneo to add to my collection.
Now it's time to start planning my next tramp abroad. My contract at Vodafone finishes at the end of March 2011. Where in the world should I go in April?
Sunday, August 15, 2010
Jungle kayaking
We had the choice of a six hour trek through the jungle where we probably would see proboscis monkeys, or a four hour kayak down a jungle river where we probably wouldn't see crocodiles, snakes or leeches. Pretty easy decision really!
In no time at all we're heading past the Orangutan sanctuary up into the hills. But first we pull over and stop at a roadside cutting. What's the problem? Our guides direct us to the bank.
We'd seen carnivorous plants in the botanic gardens before, but it was amazing seeing them growing so densely out in the wild. I thanked my lucky stars I wasn't a fly on the edge of exhaustion.
There was more exotic wildlife to see on arrival. This guy is to a bumble bee what a 747 is to a Cessna!
The intrepid kayakers pose for the obligatory shot before heading off into the unknown. Will we all make it? With all our limbs?
We navigate raging rapids.
But through skill and good fortune come through unscathed.
We stop at remote villages on the riverbank and chat with the locals.
And enjoy dragonfruit for lunch. A real treat. Perhaps one of the benefits of global warming will be to grow one of these in my back yard.
It's the hottest part of the day, so a swim to cool off is in order. No crocodiles to be seen, and I reassure Nik that the swiftness of the current will prevent any leeches from latching on.
I didn't mention the snakes, nor tell her how her granddad had been bitten by a water snake when cleaning down his tank in the Solomon Islands in WW2. The snakes passed us by on this occasion.
Soon we were back into it, marvelling at how the river had undercut the sandstone cliffs.
So all in all a sublime paddle. Lots of fun, plenty of excitement through the rapids, more than enough jungle to look at, and the three of us arrived with all our bits. Good thing the crocs were all down at Jong's farm enjoying the chooks.
A bit sad coming to the end of the trip. Our last full day in Borneo, but certainly a memorable one. Now it's time to start thinking about packing up, heading home, going to work/school, and swapping 30 degrees for 10 degrees. Can't we stay just a bit longer? I'd do the jungle trek even if I didn't see a proboscis monkey!
In no time at all we're heading past the Orangutan sanctuary up into the hills. But first we pull over and stop at a roadside cutting. What's the problem? Our guides direct us to the bank.
We'd seen carnivorous plants in the botanic gardens before, but it was amazing seeing them growing so densely out in the wild. I thanked my lucky stars I wasn't a fly on the edge of exhaustion.
There was more exotic wildlife to see on arrival. This guy is to a bumble bee what a 747 is to a Cessna!
The intrepid kayakers pose for the obligatory shot before heading off into the unknown. Will we all make it? With all our limbs?
We navigate raging rapids.
But through skill and good fortune come through unscathed.
We stop at remote villages on the riverbank and chat with the locals.
And enjoy dragonfruit for lunch. A real treat. Perhaps one of the benefits of global warming will be to grow one of these in my back yard.
It's the hottest part of the day, so a swim to cool off is in order. No crocodiles to be seen, and I reassure Nik that the swiftness of the current will prevent any leeches from latching on.
I didn't mention the snakes, nor tell her how her granddad had been bitten by a water snake when cleaning down his tank in the Solomon Islands in WW2. The snakes passed us by on this occasion.
Soon we were back into it, marvelling at how the river had undercut the sandstone cliffs.
So all in all a sublime paddle. Lots of fun, plenty of excitement through the rapids, more than enough jungle to look at, and the three of us arrived with all our bits. Good thing the crocs were all down at Jong's farm enjoying the chooks.
A bit sad coming to the end of the trip. Our last full day in Borneo, but certainly a memorable one. Now it's time to start thinking about packing up, heading home, going to work/school, and swapping 30 degrees for 10 degrees. Can't we stay just a bit longer? I'd do the jungle trek even if I didn't see a proboscis monkey!
Monday, July 19, 2010
Of crocodiles, chickens and curry
It's Thursday so today we focus on food. First stop is Jong's Crocodile farm, where prior to seeing the crocs themselves we're treated to a gallery of photos of dismembered 10 year old boys being cut out of crocodile stomachs. You wouldn't see that in a politically correct western venue, and it's certainly not for the squeamish.
I wonder what it is about young boys that crocs find so delicious. Good size? Tender? Or perhaps it just opportunism - the boys love the water but aren't experienced enough to know the dangers.
So we see crocs - lots of crocs - in fact hundreds of crocs. It's a bit unnerving to be so close to these predators when there's only a bit of rusty netting between croc and lunch.
The signs could do with an update. They're so faded the warning against swimming is barely noticeable.
But it's not all crocs. There's other wildlife at the zoo. Nik takes time out to do some communing with a distant cousin.
The crocs look quite lethargic really. Hardly threatening at all when you see them like this.
Then lunched is served. Dead chooks are strung on a wire 3m above the surface, and the crocs get a bit more active.
This is seriously scary - especially when those jaws snap closed.
It's really not a good day for chooks. While the crocs may go for brute force, we humans like to put a bit more finesse into our meals. And so it was that we enrolled in the Bumbu cooking class in the afternoon, where chicken curry was on the menu for dinner.
After donning our delightful aprons
we knocked up a nice Tako (coconut milk, pea flower and sugar set around sweetcorn in screwpine leaves) for dessert, then set to work with mortar and pestle to grind up the curry ingredients. While that was bubbling away we prepared the Sambal Midin (local fern fronds), but the dried prawns and shrimp paste were a bit overpowering for most.
The finished result was supurb.
Everyone was groaning by the end of dinner, and most of the Tako
got taken back to the Lodge for breakfast.
So an excellent day for most. Crocs 1, humans 1, chooks -2.
I wonder what it is about young boys that crocs find so delicious. Good size? Tender? Or perhaps it just opportunism - the boys love the water but aren't experienced enough to know the dangers.
So we see crocs - lots of crocs - in fact hundreds of crocs. It's a bit unnerving to be so close to these predators when there's only a bit of rusty netting between croc and lunch.
The signs could do with an update. They're so faded the warning against swimming is barely noticeable.
But it's not all crocs. There's other wildlife at the zoo. Nik takes time out to do some communing with a distant cousin.
The crocs look quite lethargic really. Hardly threatening at all when you see them like this.
Then lunched is served. Dead chooks are strung on a wire 3m above the surface, and the crocs get a bit more active.
This is seriously scary - especially when those jaws snap closed.
It's really not a good day for chooks. While the crocs may go for brute force, we humans like to put a bit more finesse into our meals. And so it was that we enrolled in the Bumbu cooking class in the afternoon, where chicken curry was on the menu for dinner.
After donning our delightful aprons
we knocked up a nice Tako (coconut milk, pea flower and sugar set around sweetcorn in screwpine leaves) for dessert, then set to work with mortar and pestle to grind up the curry ingredients. While that was bubbling away we prepared the Sambal Midin (local fern fronds), but the dried prawns and shrimp paste were a bit overpowering for most.
The finished result was supurb.
Everyone was groaning by the end of dinner, and most of the Tako
got taken back to the Lodge for breakfast.
So an excellent day for most. Crocs 1, humans 1, chooks -2.
Saturday, July 10, 2010
Headhunted in Borneo
Today's Wednesday so it must be the day to visit the Cultural Village. Instead of us traipsing all over Sarawak, the Tourist Board has kindly relocated longhouses and tribespeople from all over the state to one handy spot on the coast less than an hour from Kuching.
With a sense of anticipation we set off to encounter the natives of this jungle paradise. And it doesn't take long before we do. This fine looking headhunter is giving us a demonstration of his blowpipe shooting prowess.
It's not surprising that eligible young males should seek out a partner, and of the hundreds of tourists in the crowd, who should he desire but a lovely fair-skinned young lady from New Zealand?
After the obligatory courtship rituals, Nik has to prove she can use a blowpipe as well as he can.
And she does a pretty good job, with the dart just glancing off the balloon without popping it. Standing closer, it pops with wild applause from the audience.
Suitably impressed, the headhunter makes his move. Can Nik resist his charms? Does she want to spend the rest of her life in a longhouse deep in the Borneo jungle?
You can perhaps tell from the body language that Nik's not that keen, and besides, our headhunter hasn't yet proved himself in battle else he'd have a head dangling from his belt. Most of you can breathe a sigh of relief knowing Nik's returning to NZ with us.
The remaining time at the village was somewhat less exciting but no less rewarding. Interesting seeing the style of housing still in use in the interior today.
And we even had a go at blowpipe shooting ourselves.
Not as easy as it looks, even with a rest. Nik's definitely our star shooter, and clearly a headhunter's delight. Go Nik!
With a sense of anticipation we set off to encounter the natives of this jungle paradise. And it doesn't take long before we do. This fine looking headhunter is giving us a demonstration of his blowpipe shooting prowess.
It's not surprising that eligible young males should seek out a partner, and of the hundreds of tourists in the crowd, who should he desire but a lovely fair-skinned young lady from New Zealand?
After the obligatory courtship rituals, Nik has to prove she can use a blowpipe as well as he can.
And she does a pretty good job, with the dart just glancing off the balloon without popping it. Standing closer, it pops with wild applause from the audience.
Suitably impressed, the headhunter makes his move. Can Nik resist his charms? Does she want to spend the rest of her life in a longhouse deep in the Borneo jungle?
You can perhaps tell from the body language that Nik's not that keen, and besides, our headhunter hasn't yet proved himself in battle else he'd have a head dangling from his belt. Most of you can breathe a sigh of relief knowing Nik's returning to NZ with us.
The remaining time at the village was somewhat less exciting but no less rewarding. Interesting seeing the style of housing still in use in the interior today.
And we even had a go at blowpipe shooting ourselves.
Not as easy as it looks, even with a rest. Nik's definitely our star shooter, and clearly a headhunter's delight. Go Nik!
Friday, July 9, 2010
Orangutans!
Less than an hour out of town and we arrive at the Semenggoh Wildlife Sanctuary. The orangutans live in the surrounding forest, but come to the sanctuary to feed, and we happen to have arrived close to feeding time.
In no time we start to see them up in the trees and moving towards the feeding platforms.
Ritchie, the big male, dominates the feeding platform for a while.
They come close enough to take bananas out of the guide's hands before scuttling back up into the trees.
It's amazing seeing them so close in their natural habitat - no walls or cages between us and them - a unique experience. And they're true acrobats too.
There are times I wish I had a decent SLR like some of the other tourists - I lust after a zoom lens and decent exposure control - but my little Casio point and shoot just manages the job and doesn't weigh me down with expensive gear.
So a magic orangutan experience, and no need now to go rushing off to another sanctuary in Sabah in the east.
All we can hope for now is these magnificent animals continue to have sufficient habitat to live a natural existence. Tricky, given the voracious demand for palm oil which is seeing the rain forest decimated to make way for the endless hectares of palm trees we saw around KL.
Back to town and we book for the river boat trip. A good way to see Kuching from the comfort of a boat with a beer in hand and running commentary.
Someone with a sense of humour creating a dragon sculpture.
Some native Sarawak dancing at the end of the trip was an added bonus.
So day one in Kuching is a resounding success. Roll on our cultural experience tomorrow.
In no time we start to see them up in the trees and moving towards the feeding platforms.
Ritchie, the big male, dominates the feeding platform for a while.
They come close enough to take bananas out of the guide's hands before scuttling back up into the trees.
It's amazing seeing them so close in their natural habitat - no walls or cages between us and them - a unique experience. And they're true acrobats too.
There are times I wish I had a decent SLR like some of the other tourists - I lust after a zoom lens and decent exposure control - but my little Casio point and shoot just manages the job and doesn't weigh me down with expensive gear.
So a magic orangutan experience, and no need now to go rushing off to another sanctuary in Sabah in the east.
All we can hope for now is these magnificent animals continue to have sufficient habitat to live a natural existence. Tricky, given the voracious demand for palm oil which is seeing the rain forest decimated to make way for the endless hectares of palm trees we saw around KL.
Back to town and we book for the river boat trip. A good way to see Kuching from the comfort of a boat with a beer in hand and running commentary.
Someone with a sense of humour creating a dragon sculpture.
Some native Sarawak dancing at the end of the trip was an added bonus.
So day one in Kuching is a resounding success. Roll on our cultural experience tomorrow.
KL to Kuching
Two and a half years ago I was in KL debating whether to go to Borneo. Malacca won then as it was the wet season in Borneo - now to make amends. The Puduraya bus station was closed for renovation, but in no time the Star Shuttle agents had found us and we were on a bus for the LCCT - the low cost Air Asia terminal. Easy flight, but no transport as arranged with Singgahsana Lodge on arrival - first problem, but a taxi soon got us into town.
An interesting place, Kuching. Borneo conjures up visions of impenetrable rainforest, mud to your waist and headhunters on the loose. In reality, Kuching is a clean, modern city (fourth largest in Malaysia) with a pleasant riverside frontage not dissimilar to Phnom Penh. Yes it smells a bit fruity like all Asian cities (apart from Singapore) due to its open drains, but better than most. Affluent too - most residents have cars and the proportion of motos is low - and consequently traffic congestion is quite high.
We arrive at Singgahsana Lodge to our second problem. Our pre-booked room is on the ground floor - musty and windowless. After complaining to reception we're relocated to the second floor - vastly better. Apart from these two bad experiences Singgahsana Lodge proves to be an excellent backpackers.
Kuching is known as the city of cats, so we take the obligatory photo under the monument.
The mountains make a nice backdrop to the river.
Nik gets acquainted with the local wildlife.
Spectacular buildings too - in the background right is the DUN (Sarawak State Legislative Building), while on the left is the Astana - the home the White Rajah built for his wife.
We're booked for the orangutans in the morning. Hopefully not a view of a hairy orange bum 100m away in the trees!
An interesting place, Kuching. Borneo conjures up visions of impenetrable rainforest, mud to your waist and headhunters on the loose. In reality, Kuching is a clean, modern city (fourth largest in Malaysia) with a pleasant riverside frontage not dissimilar to Phnom Penh. Yes it smells a bit fruity like all Asian cities (apart from Singapore) due to its open drains, but better than most. Affluent too - most residents have cars and the proportion of motos is low - and consequently traffic congestion is quite high.
We arrive at Singgahsana Lodge to our second problem. Our pre-booked room is on the ground floor - musty and windowless. After complaining to reception we're relocated to the second floor - vastly better. Apart from these two bad experiences Singgahsana Lodge proves to be an excellent backpackers.
Kuching is known as the city of cats, so we take the obligatory photo under the monument.
The mountains make a nice backdrop to the river.
Nik gets acquainted with the local wildlife.
Spectacular buildings too - in the background right is the DUN (Sarawak State Legislative Building), while on the left is the Astana - the home the White Rajah built for his wife.
We're booked for the orangutans in the morning. Hopefully not a view of a hairy orange bum 100m away in the trees!
Tuesday, July 6, 2010
Storked in KL
First stop is the Petronas Centre at KLCC to get our tickets for the Skybridge. I mentioned in this blog a couple of years ago that's it's important to get there early. 8am isn't early enough!
We queue for a couple of hours and get tickets for 5pm - should be a good view getting close to sunset, but it does mean a change of plans. After breakfast at the San Francisco Coffee Shop we do a quick circuit of the shopping centre, and I'm pleasantly surprised to find electronics prices are comparable to NZ - no need to lash out on new kit here.
Next stop is back to nature - the botanical gardens and bird park on the west side of town. It's a bit of a mission to get there from the nearest train station - KL isn't a particularly pedestrian friendly place, and tourist attractions aren't well signed.
But it's worth it when we get there.
The hibiscus, orchids and other plants are stunning.
I was particularly impressed by the carnivores.
On to the biggest walk-in aviary in the world, but first a stop to quench our thirst with local tropical juices that interestingly turned into a traffic light!
Of course we had to get Nik lined up with a bit of the wildlife.
And not just birds, plenty of monkeys around as well. Last time in KL I only saw them from outside at a distance.
The birds were all very tame. A stork was waiting patiently on a railing waiting to pose with tourists.
Just as bit closer Nik - he's really friendly. I'd like a better photo...
And Nik gets storked! A photo a few milliseconds later would have captured Nik about a metre in the air as her scream echoes around the bird park! Fortunately it was just a gentle beaking with no lasting ill-effects - more a love-peck really.
His Evilness Himself.
Not cheap to get in, but the bird park is a must-see in KL.
Back to KLCC and up 40-odd floors to the observation bridge. Certainly some spectacular views.
After more window-shopping we head back to Chinatown for a meal and to recount our top experiences of the day. No question about that - being storked in KL takes the cake!
We queue for a couple of hours and get tickets for 5pm - should be a good view getting close to sunset, but it does mean a change of plans. After breakfast at the San Francisco Coffee Shop we do a quick circuit of the shopping centre, and I'm pleasantly surprised to find electronics prices are comparable to NZ - no need to lash out on new kit here.
Next stop is back to nature - the botanical gardens and bird park on the west side of town. It's a bit of a mission to get there from the nearest train station - KL isn't a particularly pedestrian friendly place, and tourist attractions aren't well signed.
But it's worth it when we get there.
The hibiscus, orchids and other plants are stunning.
I was particularly impressed by the carnivores.
On to the biggest walk-in aviary in the world, but first a stop to quench our thirst with local tropical juices that interestingly turned into a traffic light!
Of course we had to get Nik lined up with a bit of the wildlife.
And not just birds, plenty of monkeys around as well. Last time in KL I only saw them from outside at a distance.
The birds were all very tame. A stork was waiting patiently on a railing waiting to pose with tourists.
Just as bit closer Nik - he's really friendly. I'd like a better photo...
And Nik gets storked! A photo a few milliseconds later would have captured Nik about a metre in the air as her scream echoes around the bird park! Fortunately it was just a gentle beaking with no lasting ill-effects - more a love-peck really.
His Evilness Himself.
Not cheap to get in, but the bird park is a must-see in KL.
Back to KLCC and up 40-odd floors to the observation bridge. Certainly some spectacular views.
After more window-shopping we head back to Chinatown for a meal and to recount our top experiences of the day. No question about that - being storked in KL takes the cake!
Kuta to KL
It's up at 3.30am to get to the airport in good time, and shortly I'm winging my way out of Bali and looking forward to my arrival in KL. There's something mildly relaxing about revisiting a city you've visited before. No longer "on edge" about what to expect, I find myself back in Petaling St searching out a hotel room.
Chinatown is as manic as ever, with street stalls, restaurants and crowds of both tourists and locals - a real buzz, particularly the steaming cauldrons of roasting chestnuts. Moving a bit upmarket from the Red Dragon backpackers I stayed in before, I settle for the Winsin Hotel- two rooms with private showers and windows for a not outrageous price.
Pauline and Nik are flying in to KLIA, and being so far from the airport the train is the best way of getting there. It's quite obvious really to have a train between the airport and city centre - Auckland seems to be lost in the dark ages.
Pickup is like clockwork - great to see them again. We swap stories and make plans for a Sunday in KL as we whistle back into town.
Chinatown is as manic as ever, with street stalls, restaurants and crowds of both tourists and locals - a real buzz, particularly the steaming cauldrons of roasting chestnuts. Moving a bit upmarket from the Red Dragon backpackers I stayed in before, I settle for the Winsin Hotel- two rooms with private showers and windows for a not outrageous price.
Pauline and Nik are flying in to KLIA, and being so far from the airport the train is the best way of getting there. It's quite obvious really to have a train between the airport and city centre - Auckland seems to be lost in the dark ages.
Pickup is like clockwork - great to see them again. We swap stories and make plans for a Sunday in KL as we whistle back into town.
Saturday, July 3, 2010
Ubud to Kuta
I'm not particularly looking forward to Kuta - everyone I've met says to get out of there as quickly as you can. But I've got to experience it for myself, so here goes.
I'm on the bus chatting to an Irish girl. She and her partner are returning to a nice guesthouse on Poppies Gang, so I tag along hoping to get a room, Sadly they're full, but no worries, just around the corner are three guesthouses I've extracted from Lonely Planet. With my pack weighing me down in the oppressive midday heat and humidity I settle for the first - Rita's House. Big mistake - while it's got a pool the rooms are overpried, and it wasn't until I'd settled in that I realised:
So this is Kuta. The same tacky tourist stuff I've seen before, only more crass. The most popular items on display are wooden penis bottle openers, and T-shirts with the logo "Go to Bunnings, Buy some timber, Build a Bridge, Get over it". Spare me!
But Kuta is really about the beach, so in no time at all I'm in my togs heading for the surf.
Now this isn't actually too bad. After a couple of hours bodysurfing I wash off in the pool, forsaking the shower. But as a beach it's not a patch on the clean white sands we have in NZ, and the bars all seem rather tacky. Adequate I guess, but not my choice of an Asian beach holiday - Phuket resonated with me more.
So Indonesian memories? Definitely worth a visit with Borobudur, Bromo and Lovina as highlights, but you're forever running the gauntlet of come-ons for taxis, massages, "special" batik exhibitions, blowpipes and other assorted junk you really don't want. It gets so persistent you really just want to tell them to f*** off, but they're only trying to make a living in a fairly impoverished country, so copious No thank yous (Teeduck, terimah carsee) are the order of the day.
But hey, I've done Indonesia now (well, Java and Bali at least, though sure there's more of Bali to see like the east coast and the Gili Islands). Now it's off to KL to meet up with Pauline & Nik for the Borneo leg. The blog might get a bit patchy from hereon in - it's a personal thing, and I suspect we'll be flat out from now on.
I'm on the bus chatting to an Irish girl. She and her partner are returning to a nice guesthouse on Poppies Gang, so I tag along hoping to get a room, Sadly they're full, but no worries, just around the corner are three guesthouses I've extracted from Lonely Planet. With my pack weighing me down in the oppressive midday heat and humidity I settle for the first - Rita's House. Big mistake - while it's got a pool the rooms are overpried, and it wasn't until I'd settled in that I realised:
- The toilet doesn't flush (hence the bucket of water conveniently supplied)
- There's no toilet paper or bum gun
- The shower tap disintegrates as you turn it, resulting in a solid stream of water at waist height. This was actually better than the pittance coming out the shower nozzle once the tap was reassembled.
So this is Kuta. The same tacky tourist stuff I've seen before, only more crass. The most popular items on display are wooden penis bottle openers, and T-shirts with the logo "Go to Bunnings, Buy some timber, Build a Bridge, Get over it". Spare me!
But Kuta is really about the beach, so in no time at all I'm in my togs heading for the surf.
Now this isn't actually too bad. After a couple of hours bodysurfing I wash off in the pool, forsaking the shower. But as a beach it's not a patch on the clean white sands we have in NZ, and the bars all seem rather tacky. Adequate I guess, but not my choice of an Asian beach holiday - Phuket resonated with me more.
So Indonesian memories? Definitely worth a visit with Borobudur, Bromo and Lovina as highlights, but you're forever running the gauntlet of come-ons for taxis, massages, "special" batik exhibitions, blowpipes and other assorted junk you really don't want. It gets so persistent you really just want to tell them to f*** off, but they're only trying to make a living in a fairly impoverished country, so copious No thank yous (Teeduck, terimah carsee) are the order of the day.
But hey, I've done Indonesia now (well, Java and Bali at least, though sure there's more of Bali to see like the east coast and the Gili Islands). Now it's off to KL to meet up with Pauline & Nik for the Borneo leg. The blog might get a bit patchy from hereon in - it's a personal thing, and I suspect we'll be flat out from now on.
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