Heraklion to Santorini

It's an easy and stress-free walk from our hotel down to the ferry on Thursday morning. The wind has dropped, the weather forecast is looking good, and we're hoping for a smooth crossing. We pop some Sealegs just in case.

This time the sun stays on the right side of the boat, and we make Santorini mid-morning.


It looks very forbidding on arrival, with mist swirling around the craggy hilltops, and even worse, there are a couple of cruise ships just visible through the gloom. More bloody tourists inflating the prices and getting in the way when you're trying to compose the photo of a lifetime!

Stavros is at the wharf to meet us, and in no time we're checking in to economical Emylia Studios in Karterados, a few minutes south-west of Thira (Thira is where all the flash, expensive hotels with caldera views are located). It's an easy walk to town, so we start exploring.


It really is a stunning place. Thira is built on the edge of the impossibly steep slope of the caldera, formed by an earth-wrenching volcanic eruption around 1,600BC. Even now the island is unstable, with significant earthquake damage being done as recently as 1956.

It's Pauline's first time in Santorini, and 30 years since I was here. Lots has changed, and it's certainly a lot more commercial and touristy.


Fortunately the cathedral in the heart of town remains unchanged as elegant as before, and I replicate a photo I took during my last visit.


It's a long way down those twisty steps to the wharf where the cruise ships disgorge their passengers.


We decide against the donkeys - we're not that decrepit yet, but enjoy the fruity aroma of their presence as we trot down the steps, taking particular care where we step.

Now that's new. There's a cable car to make the return journey that wasn't here for my last visit. I toy with the idea of giving Pauline my gear and running to the top to meet/beat her, but discretion forms the better part of valour and I hand over my €4 too.


With it's narrow twisting stairs and whitewashed buildings this place is superbly photogenic. All you can really do is gasp in awe, but not for too long as inevitably you're in the way of another tourist's shot.


There's a pretty blue-domed church around every other corner. Certainly a reminder that Christianity is inculcated into modern Greek culture and lifestyle.


Stavros recommends Savas, a little local restaurant just around the corner from the guest house. We agree with his recommendation, and have generally found that little local restaurants away from the main tourist areas offer much more authentic food at very reasonable prices. The pasticcio, stuffed aubergine and charcoal-grilled meats were to die for.

Unfortunately we only have one more day on Santorini. We could either do a boat cruise which takes in the volcano and the smaller caldera islands, or stick to the main island and explore it on two wheels. Hmm, a Hobson's choice if ever there was one!

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