I watch The King's Speech on the plane and wonder what everyone's raving about. Certainly a good movie, but very simple and linear - seems more like a PR job for the Royal Family.
A bit of a worry flying into Japan given the recent events. I ask the captain to circle the Osaka runway a couple of times to check it out. There don't seem to be any cracks, nor is it glowing brighter than the runway lights, so I give him the ok to land.
We touch down after two hours sleep. Monday's not going to be very productive so we head for a decent coffee to give us a boost. The moving walkways sense our presence, play soothing music and whisper to us in Japanese. Yes, we've arrived in the land of high technology. I'm looking forward to going to the loo and being told if my sciatica's going to flare up tomorrow.
Suitably caffeinated we manage to just comprehend the Japanese rail system, and after an express train from the airport through Osaka to Kyoto and two station changes later find ourselves exiting the subway not far from our excellent Eco & Tec hotel, and yes they have wifi - just as well as the cafes and restaurants don't.
Our orientation walk towards the Heianjingu temple is an eye-opener.
Yes we're on the eastern side of town where a lot of the temples are, but I'm struck by just how quiet and beautiful it is. Do the trees really grow like this on their own?
It's rush hour, but where's all the traffic? Then it clicks - everyone's on bicycles! I was expecting Kyoto to be a typical modern Asian city like Hong Kong - chock full of cars as status symbols of success. But Kyoto has evolved to the next stage where cycling infrastructure is ever-present, and everyone, young and old, male and female, students and businessmen chooses a bicycle as the best way to get around. We can learn something from this!
Dodging the showers on Tuesday morning we head off to the Kiyomizudera temple to the south east. But where to have breakfast? I spot what looks like a restaurant. Pauline's dubious but follows me in, and we're ushered in to a little booth with tatami mat floors and cushions at low tables. Magic! Food's excellent too - beautifully presented with exquisite service. You don't actually mind paying a premium for quality.
No surprise seeing hordes of school children in their sailor suit uniforms, but unexpected was the number of women in kimonos - not sure if it's just our proximity to the temples, Kyoto, or a special day, but it's certainly welcome.
Kiyomizudera is a beautiful Buddhist temple in beautiful surroundings, and it seems every school kid in Kyoto is here. Apparently it's very auspicious to plunge your head into an urn of burning incense and waft it over your face. I tried, but couldn't elbow my way through.
Magic walking through the gardens. You can just feel the stress of jet lag, insufficient sleep, tired feet and travel weariness seep away while you immerse yourself in the exquisite layout and soothing flowing water.
Same same but different. In Italy you look up a little cobbled lane to see someone on a bike, and a statue or Tuscan tower. In Kyoto you see someone on a bike and a temple or shrine.
Dinner and we really don't feel like going out to a restaurant. Our hotel has cooking facilities, so a quick trip to a nearby 7-11 sees us with a couple of instant heat meals and a half bottle of a Californian red. Excellent! Yes, food's expensive, but it's still possible to eat economically on the odd occasion. You'll even find the occasional McDonalds if you're desperate. I popped in to check out the whale burgers but it can't have been the season. Hopefully it never is.
Wednesday 18 May - our last full day sightseeing! Is the trip really coming to an end this quickly? Seems like only a couple of weeks ago we were excitedly heading off for Hong Kong.
First stop is the moated Nijo castle on the west side of town.
In the grounds I find an answer to my question as to why Japanese trees grow so exquisitely. They have a helping hand!
A stroll through the palace gardens and I start thinking of redoing the garden at home. Perhaps a moat would be good too - to keep the Mormons and cold-calling salesmen at bay.
Seemed to work for the Japanese emperors.
My walking shoes are on their last legs, but we haven't finished yet. A hike to the north-west via the Path of Philosophy aims us at Ginkakuji temple, another sublime Japanese offering to weary tourists.
Just off the Path there's a little shrine where we commune with our Asian zodiac equivalents. The forthright, tenacious, intense, meticulous, charismatic, sensitive, intellectual, industrious, charming, eloquent, sociable, artistic, and shrewd rat for Pauline.
The inventor, motivator, improviser, quick-witted, inquisitive, flexible, innovative, problem solver, self-assured, sociable, artistic, polite, dignified, competitive, objective, factual, intellectual monkey for me. Sounds about right!
No surprises - Ginkakuji and its grounds are beautiful,
including the large sand sculptures and textured surfaces that must have taken for ever to make.
I'd come across a snake in Tuscany, but it slithered off into the undergrowth before I could get a good look. On our way back from Ginkakuji snakes were the last thing on my mind as I stepped over a branch lying on the path. Then it moved and made its way to a tree while a bunch of Japanese gasped and wondered why this stupid 外国人 was tempting fate.
My nephew John and wife Yayoi had recommended we try Okonomi-yaki - Japanese pancakes, and conveniently our visitor guide brochure gives us 10% off at Hanatanuki restaurant which specialises in them. I'm sitting down to a seafood Okonomi-yaki while Pauline scored the Tanuki-yaki topped with spring onions. Both definitely recommended, as is Japanese beer.
We have time for a bit of souvenir shopping in our travels. A nice wall hanging? I'll have that! Teapot and mugs? I'll have that - developed a taste for properly made green tea. A kamikaze (divine wind) headband? I'll have that! Just right for cycling in Auckland, though Pauline thinks it better refers to my ability to clear a room. That's a forthright rat comment if ever I heard one.
Thursday morning and we're due at Osaka Kix in the afternoon. Just time to squeeze in another garden and temple!
This time it's nearby Heianjingu, and we're pleased we made the effort.
Even more so if I'd been able to tickle one of these giant carp out of the water, but I might have had a bit of a problem getting it back through NZ Biosecurity.
We retrace our steps through the rail network to get to the airport, only to find our scheduled flight doesn't exist! Another flight leaves three hours later, and we have no choice but to hang around the airport rather than spend another half day sight-seeing. Come on AirNZ - all it would have taken was an email or txt message to warn us ahead of time - but there was no communication at all.
So, impressions of Japan, or to be precise, the people and temples of Kyoto, which is a world away from industrial Japan. Basically we had a great time and can't fault it. The people were friendly, service respectful and excellent, the city uncongested and full of bicycles, almost no graffiti, and the temples and gardens stunning. There's a bit of culture shock in not comprehending the spoken or written language, but there are sufficient signs and instructions in English to get around. Given an opportunity we'll definitely be back.
The flight home is uneventful, and we step out into a cool Auckland autumn day, with just a few clouds around. Not a tornado in sight - it's good to be home.
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