Bargaining & scamming

I made it to Hue ok, but the weather isn't clearing like I hoped. Steady rain as I make my way to my hotel, and the Internet forecast looks like the same for tomorrow. Bummer - Hue looks like a lovely city.

So I 've done my washing, had a shower, repacked my pack, and recharged my camera & phone. But with the rain still falling, I'll do a quick note for Robert about scamming (Robert's on his way to Vietnam in late December, and will need these tips).

Now don't get me wrong - Vietnamese are lovely, friendly and generally honest people. Just like the rest of us. But every now and then you get a few ratbags who prey on tourists.

Bargaining
Vietnamese are natural born traders and bargainers. Bargaining at markets and most tourist shops is expected and encouraged - only in rare cases might you be presented with a fixed price. Here are the techniques:

• Be aware of the approximate value of what it is you want, both in dong and USD ($1 = 16,000 dong)
• Have small denominations in both currencies available
• Ask the price. Do a quick mental calculation. If not in the ballpark, walk away. They may chase you once you've expressed interest.
• If interested, offer 30%
• Negotiate to around 50-60%
• Present the right amount - depending on which pocket they access they may not have the right amount of change
• Say thank you (garm ern) and walk away happy
• If you think they got a slightly better deal, ask for a photo. A beaming street trader who just got 10,000 dong more than expected makes a great photo, and it really costs you nothing.

Buying fruit
Similar to above, but I find it easier to offer an amount I want to spend (eg 5,000 dong), and see how many bananas/mandarins they'll give me for it. Otherwise you'll probably end up being overcharged.

Scams
Scams are where you enter in to a transaction in good faith, but you end up being ripped off. Scammers are very good at their art, and you will be scammed. Follow the tips above, and these additional points below, and your losses may not be too bad.

• Agree the service and associated cost before anything happens
• Show the money you're going to pay. It's amazing how 15,000 dong magically turns in to either 150,000 dong, or $15 at the end of the transaction when it's time for you to pay
• If you sense something is going wrong (eg a trip taking longer than it should), stop and pay them off what was agreed
• Be familiar with the currency - don't allow them to snatch notes out of your hand
• Don't carry/flash too many big notes. Keep your big notes hidden, and have about the right amount of money prepared ahead of time
• Don't give money to people who say they're collecting for charity. They'll have a sheet with a whole lot of western names and large amounts of money against each one. Your guilty conscience will want to match them - but it's a scam
• Know the name of your hotel and ask to be taken straight to it. Have a card from your hotel if possible. Say you've already paid. Otherwise they'll tell you it's closed and will take you to a hotel where they get a commission
• If you get in to a difficult situation, you don't have many options but to pay up. If it's just a few dollars, put it down to experience and ensure it doesn't happen next time.

Now for a little salutory story from Will, a naive Sydney tourist who recounted this horror story while at our Sapa homestay (everyone has a scamming story to tell).

Will arrived in HCM and was walking down the road away from his hotel, map in hand, ready to see the sights. He was propositioned by a moto rider, who offered to take him round and drop him off at each of the sights on his map, while waiting for him to see each one. Will thought this was a great idea, and after half a day the two were getting on like a house on fire. Best mates.

Then the moto rider suggested Will take a boat trip on the Mekong River to see the sights. "Why not?", Will thought, and off they went on a rickety little boat away from civilisation out in to the middle of the river. The mood changed rather suddenly at this point. "Now you pay", said the moto rider. "Let's settle up back at the hotel", said Will. "No - pay now" said the moto rider. "1,500,000 dong".

So what do you do? Stuck in the middle of the Mekong you pay up, or risk being found floating in the river a few days later. Will (and all of us listening) are a lot wiser now - and we all agreed he did the right thing in the end.

But don't let this put you off, Robert. You'll have a great time - just be wary about people who offer goods and services, and be on your guard.